An expert’s take on how to exfoliate your skin the right way

We all want smooth, glowing skin that looks fresh and healthy, but exfoliation can be a bit of a mystery, especially with so many products and methods to choose from. Should you scrub away dead skin with a harsh face scrub or rely on something gentler? And what’s the deal with chemical exfoliation?

Scrub vs slough and dissolve – which is best?

When it comes to exfoliating, most of us are familiar with two main types: physical and chemical exfoliation. Both methods aim to remove dead skin cells, but they work in different ways and have different effects on your skin.

Physical exfoliation is the method many of us know well, and involves scrubbing your skin with an abrasive product, such as a facial scrub, sponge or exfoliating cloth. These products contain small gritty particles that manually slough off the top layer of dead skin, and while it can leave the skin feeling smooth and refreshed, there’s a downside.

“Physical exfoliants can be harsh on the skin, especially when used too often or with too much pressure. If you’re not careful, it can cause microtears in the skin, which can lead to irritation, redness, or even scarring,” says Karen Bester, Medical Training Manager at Lamelle Pharmaceuticals.

On the other hand, chemical exfoliation relies on active ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) to break down the bonds between dead skin cells. Instead of scrubbing, these acids dissolve the skin’s outer layer, allowing the dead cells to be removed more gently. This method is less abrasive and can be more effective at treating various skin concerns, such as dullness, pigmentation and acne.

Why chemical exfoliation is a game changer

One of the main reasons chemical exfoliation is so effective is that it can penetrate deeper into the skin. This is particularly useful for treating skin concerns like acne, blackheads, and pigmentation. For example, salicylic acid, a type of BHA, can penetrate the outer layer of skin and seep into pores to clear out blockages, while glycolic acid, an AHA, works on the surface to improve texture and promote a more even skin tone.

“Chemical exfoliants do more than just remove dead skin cells,” Bester explains. “They promote cellular turnover, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, age spots and acne scars. They also help your skin better absorb other skincare products, so you’re getting the most out of your routine.”

Unlike physical exfoliants, which can cause microtears or irritation, chemical exfoliants are much gentler on the skin. This is particularly important for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea, as physical exfoliation can often make these issues worse.

The benefits of chemical exfoliation go beyond just improving your skin’s appearance. Regular use can help boost your skin’s overall health by stimulating collagen production, which is essential for maintaining a youthful, plump complexion. It can also help to improve your skin’s natural barrier, making it more resilient over time.

Bester points out, “Consistent use of chemical exfoliants can lead to smoother, more youthful skin over time. Because they work more deeply and gently, they provide long-term benefits that physical exfoliants just can’t offer.”

How to incorporate chemical exfoliation into your routine

The key is not to overdo it. While exfoliation is important, over-exfoliating can lead to irritation and even worsen skin conditions. Bester suggests starting slowly with a mild exfoliant, using it once or twice a week, and gradually increasing the frequency as your skin becomes accustomed to it.

It’s also essential to remember that exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun. After using any kind of exfoliant, especially a chemical one, make sure to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful UV rays. This will help prevent sun damage and pigmentation from developing, keeping your skin looking healthy and radiant.

Always doing a patch test before trying a new chemical exfoliant, especially if you have sensitive skin. This simple step can help you avoid any unwanted reactions, ensuring that the product is right for you.

Exfoliation is a crucial part of any skincare routine, but it’s important to choose the method that works best for your skin type and concerns. While physical exfoliation can be effective in some cases, it comes with risks, especially if you have sensitive skin. Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, offers a deeper, more even, and gentler approach to exfoliating that’s backed by expert advice and research.